We had all had an excellent
nights kip in the Baan Andeman hotel, which surprisingly enough had much
comfier beds and quieter surroundings than the overnight train to get through
Malaysia and into Thailand. James, Svitlana and I all met for breakfast and
enjoyed it at one of the tables outside. It was the first time we had eaten breakfast
outside, and it was a great start to the day. The rest of the day would be
spent wandering around Krabi town and seeing off Svitlana as she departed for
Railay Beech, just down the coast from Krabi. But first, we would need to buy
some boat tickets…
We wandered into town and
gradually got acquainted with the area and the way things worked in Thailand. We
had a quick walk round the shops and then headed towards the river. It seems
that in Thailand you need to get all your travel arrangements through travel
agencies, who just so happen to line the streets of every town and city across
the land. And this is where the bartering comes in. You see what the going rate
is and try and get them as low as possible, without insulting them in the
process. For Svitlana’s journey to Railay Beech it would only be a small “long
tail” boat’s ride away, but I would need to get a proper ferry ticket to get to
Phi Phi Island the next day. As soon as we approached the river a chap in a hat
came up to us trying to sell tickets to Railay Beech, and Svitlana engaged him
in conversation. He was offering a fare of 150 Baht (£3) to get there on his
flimsy long tail boat, but it would only leave Krabi if he could fill the other
3 spaces in his boat. It seemed a silly way of doing things, although great for
him, so we wandered on to the next guy who came bounding up to us offering
tickets. This guy also claimed he could do it for 150 Baht and would also pick
her up from our hotel at 2pm, so that was a bonus. With that sorted it was left
to me to arrange my ferry ticket.
Svitlana, obviously happy after booking her ticket to Railay Beech |
A few minutes walk from the
river and we came across a travel agency that looked half decent, and not too
pushy – this is always a good sign as the pushier they are the higher the
prices. The hotel had offered me a return ticket for 800 Baht, which I felt was
a little steep, even though it was almost a 2 hour crossing each way. In the
travel agency they tried to get me buying a ticket for 700 Baht but after using
a little bit of English charm I managed to get it for 600 and a pick-up and
drop-off from/to the hotel included. Svitlana would be getting a ticket to Phi
Phi island from Railay Beech and we had agreed that we would meet on the pier
at 10:30, so it was not the last we would see of her. And that was the next
thing off the to-do list, and the only thing left was to grab some food for
lunch.
Before we got our bellies full
of food we happened across a Buddhist temple in the centre of town and spent
some time there wondering at the beauty of it all and at how hot it was inside
the actual temple itself. Svitlana seemed intent on climbing up a large tree
that had some rickety old slats of wood nailed into it, but on reflection she
decided against it, which was the right call.
In the Bhuddist Temple |
The Chok-Dee restaurant was our
pick of the crop for our mid-day meal, mainly because James had been revelling
in the fact the he knew a couple of Thai phrases, with chok dee being one of
them (cheers). We grabbed a table, ordered some (very cheap) food and drink and
sat back and waited for our sustenance to be delivered. Mid-way through a
conversation the heavens opened and poured down rain around us. The extent was
so bad that we were getting splashes every now and then, even at the table in
the middle of the restaurant. It didn’t trouble us too much as we thought we
could just wait it out, until we realised that we needed to get Svitlana back
to the hotel for her pick-up and that she would also be riding in a very flimsy
boat along the coastline in torrential rain. Whether she would be roped in to
bailing out the excess water we would have to wait and see.
The Chok Dee |
Thankfully it ceased raining
heavily as we departed and we trudged back to the hotel through the drizzle. Once
inside and dry we waited for her ride to arrive, and when it did we all looked
at each other with a wry smile on our face. It was the ticket guy on a scooter.
It was a good job that Svitlana had arranged with the hotel to leave her main
luggage there for 3 days whilst she went to Railay, otherwise it would have had
to be dragged along the road behind them. As they sped off back into town James
and I retired to the room to catch up on some “admin” and generally have a
relaxed afternoon.
We had discussed going for a
wander later in the day and the clock had hit 4pm, so it was probably about
right to go out and get some exercise to build up an appetite before dinner. After
checking Facebook one last time we noticed that we both had a message from our
Ukranian friend, stating that she was still in Krabi. She should have been
sunning herself on Railay Beech or climbing up some rocks by now, but for some
reason the boat had not gone and she was heading back to the hotel. We said
that we would meet her there after our little jaunt and she would book in for
another night at the Baan Andeman.
Our walk was good, it worked up
a bit of an appetite, and we almost learned something about the Thai alphabet.
The park that we walked through had little statues of things next to the
letters of the English, and then the Thai, alphabet. But we couldn’t work out
what some of them were, so we ended up heading through the park and back
towards the hotel. We met up with Svitlana doing the same walk by chance and
arranged to go for dinner in town at 6pm.
A boat |
We did the usual Baan
Andeman-Krabi town centre walk that we were getting to know very, very well,
but we only got a few hundred yards from our hotel. I was wearing flip-flops
and somehow managed to catch my heel on a metal pin sticking out of the road.
It wasn’t rusty, which was good, but it still flipping hurt like a mother
flipper, so I had to go back, clean and plaster it before we could continue. But
continue we did, and we found ourselves in a lovely little place down by the
river, and it turned out that it was a “soft opening” which meant that the chef
hadn’t quite mastered all the dishes and the menu wasn’t set in stone, but it
looked jolly lovely inside so we made ourselves comfortable at one of the
tables.
It seemed cheap enough and a
good selection of foods on offer, and the owners were quite chatty with us, but
not over the top, which was nice. After not achieving the pad thai in the
restaurant in Kuala Lumpur some days ago I plumped for it again, with a side of
vegetable rice. It wasn’t long before the vegetable rice turned up, and it was
good, VERY good. All I needed now was the pad thai to go with it. James and
Svetlana’s dishes both turned up soon after, but I was left waiting for the pad
thai. The problem was, as it turned out, that the kitchen had run out of gas.
So my pad thai would have to wait, until they had wheeled out the empty
canister of gas and rolled in a new one. All in all this took about half an
hour and my veggie rice was decidedly cold by the time it arrived. But when my
second dish did arrive it was very nice. Not amazing, but good. And we got some
complimentary “special” spring rolls because of the wait.
After the dinner we walked
vaguely back to the hotel, but found ourselves in a slightly different part of
town. We stopped off to search out the strange noises emanating from the lawns
down by the Marina Bar. It turned out to be a combination of cicada beetles and
tiny little frogs, who we managed to outsmart by keeping quiet – you really had
to be there. And that was all we had time for really, as we needed an early
night as myself and Svitlana would be up early in the morning to go to Phi Phi
island…
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