Independence Day. You
wouldn’t know it from walking the streets of New Orleans. Aside from the
increase in American citizens wearing t-shirts with the star-spangled banner
emblazoned across them, and the occasional drinks offer in some of the many,
many bars that line the streets of New Orleans. But sure enough, it was the day
that the US celebrates its birthday and send off fireworks into the sky in remembrance
of the founding fathers that fought off the oppressive English regime. But for
James and Tim.....we just wanted to party!
As we were to be
confined to the French Quarter we decided to walk the boundaries and see just
how bad it could really be. We had been told that by going only a street or two
outside of the French Quarter could land us in trouble, so off we set to peep
across the boundary roads of Canal Street, North Rampart and Esplanade into the
dark and unknown blocks that housed the dodgier folk of this great city. And
yes, now I can understand why people say to never cross those boundaries. Although
we felt very safe on our side of the street, there definitely seemed to be a
division between the two sides, with boarded-up houses and people loitering on
the non-French Quarter sidewalks. After hitting all three boundaries we headed “inland”
along the streets that just seemed so pretty and would look completely out of
place anywhere else in the world, but just seemed to work so well in the fair
city of New Orleans. We even happened across a couple that were (arguing about)
looking for Bard Pitts house, and although she really didn’t want to look for it
he was insistent. To the point where I thought they were going to have a
blazing row about it as soon as they turned the corner from us.
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Brad Pitt's house.......probably. Probably not. |
After lunch we
attempted to find a place (other than the hotel lobby) that had wi-fi
available, and James had scouted out 5 or 6 places to try, coffee shops for
example. But being the 4th of July, guess how many were open! Yup,
none. So we tried the Starbucks we had seen across the Canal Street boundary
road, but again, that was shut too. We eventually found a ‘Bucks near our hotel
and hurriedly set about trying to find our accommodation for Fort Worth or
Dallas, which was to be our next stop, as we had not had any luck on previous
attempts. Well, when I say luck, we had had some luck.....bad luck. Everything
was either way out of our price-range or was miles away from the city centre where
the Greyhound would drop us. Maybe some more Couchsurfing would help us out....
One of the reasons for
coming to America was to sample some of the places featured on Man vs Food, and
luckily enough there were three in New Orleans! One was across boundary street
and seemed quite pricey for what was essentially a sandwich, so James and I
headed off to the ACME Oyster House, where host Adam Richman had eaten 180
oysters within one hour. Now I knew that even between us that would never get
finished (let alone us afford it!), and we certainly wouldn’t want to take the
rest away in a doggy bag. So James went for a bowl of seafood gumbo, whereas I
opted for the Seafood Etoufee (nope, I don’t know either) with a side of sweet
potato fries. For an appetiser I chose a single oyster shooter as I have never
had oysters before and I wanted to try one, but not a whole plate of them. It
turns out that the Oyster
Shooter is a single oyster in a shot glass, with vodka and Tabasco sauce.
Hmmmmm. But when in Rome! The Etoufee was delicious and was a great start to
our evening of celebrating.
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Ready for my Oyster Shot! |
We had enough time
after dinner to get a beer before the fireworks would be setting off at 9pm, so
we headed back down to Bourbon Street to see what we could find. The $2 margaritas
were sadly not on offer, so we plumped for two “Big Ass Beers” from a guy
selling drinks from a small mobile cart in an alleyway. These Big Ass Beers
were essentially just a pint (an English pint at that) in a plastic cup, but as
is the custom in Bourbon Street.....and indeed the whole of New Orleans it
seems....it was perfectly acceptable to drink it whilst walking, so we did, on
our what seemed like 8th length of Bourbon Street. A quick toilet break
at our hotel and we were standing on the banks of the Mississippi with hip
flask in hand, waiting for the big celebrations to begin. The show that kicked
off at 9pm was good, but seemed to be lacking the brilliance of New Years Eve
shows. Either way, it was already the best 4th of July we had
experienced, and there was more to come! As soon as the fireworks had finished
we heard a jazz band strike up nearby so we wander over for a closer look. They
were fantastic, and we could have stayed there listening all night, but they
seemed to pause quite frequently between songs, probably just to catch their
breath and mop the torrents of sweat from their brows, as it was still stifling
hot out there!
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USA! USA! USA! |
My tiny hip flask (it
only held 50ml of brandy) was soon empty, and we knew the party on good ol’
Bourbon Street would still be going on so off we went to grab another BAB for
$3. Whilst walking down the street James had managed to cajole a young lady
from the balcony into throwing him a set of her beads, and this was without
(thankfully!) him having to expose any flesh whatsoever. I was a little jealous
as I had nothing around my neck, but was gonna be sure to keep a look out for
any more heading me way. We decided to sample the festivities from a bar
balcony so headed up and out of the nearest one that seemed cheap, and before
we had chance to buy a beer we were accosted by a Shot Girl (a young girl selling
an array of coloured alcoholic drinks from test tubes for $3 a pop). After
advising her that we were on a tight budget (which I think we should get
t-shirts printed) she said it was fine and we chatted for about 20 minutes,
safe from the craziness that was going on below us. I’m not sure that Zoe will
get many points in Travellers Top Trumps, but I’m sure she will make it through
the first round to Boot Camp.
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Bourbon Street in all it's glory |
A few more lengths of
Bourbon Street and we had finished our hip flasks and another BAG, and I had
got my beads! Again, no exposing of flesh was needed to obtain these purple and
gold beads, merely joining the melee outside a gentlemens club where one of
the......employees.....was throwing out beads by the armful. Sure enough I
grabbed three as they rained down on us, much to the dismay of the girl behind
me, but hey, if she wanted them so bad she coulda jumped for them like the rest
of us! And so that pretty much brought the curtain down on the 4th
July celebrations, and as me and James lay on the loungers outside the hotel to
have one last chat of the night we were both content with our evenings festivities,
and that we should try and do a “Good Riddance” party on the 4th
July 2013.
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The boys with their beads |
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